The following table gives some detail about the levels of acceptability of various garments and fabrics. Many thanks go to Deb Peterson, Karen Mullian, Kate Johnson, Betsy Packard and Lisa Ritchie for their help in developing these guidelines, and to Mara Riley for allowing me to steal her table format for this reference piece. Some commentary about garments is found at the end of the table. Contact our Quartermaster Taylor with any questions or to contribute research.

The best advice you'll ever get is to take someone shopping with you who's been studying 18th century garments for some time. Though sutlers are becoming more and more intentional about providing us with accurate styles and fabrics, too many times a newer hobbyist has returned excited about a purchase a less knowledgeable sutler has recommended, only to find out that it doesn't meet the minimum guidelines. Books and catalogs (our recommended reading list will soon be posted) can be borrowed from the Quartermaster Taylor's library so you can see styles and fabrics, and your unit mentor  will be more than happy to give you first-hand guidance on your purchases of patterns, fabrics and garments. NOTE: Synthetic fiber content is not acceptable because it presents a very real fire hazard and is simply not documentable, with the understanding that modern wools can be up to 15% nylon and still meet the 100% wool fabric standards.

Pattern recommendations made here are not exclusive but are examples of well-researched and well-designed products. Links to suppliers on this page will open a second window in your browser so that you will not leave this page.

Whatever you choose to wear, keep in mind that we portray women of a working class, living or traveling in often unhospitable territory with little or no time to launder, and no time or equipment to press your clothing.

As with any information contained on our pages, you may print the pages for your own information but they are not to be duplicated or disseminated in any form without our express permission.

How do you put on all that clothing?

A very nice pictorial guide to dressing the 18th century woman is online at http://www.geocities.com/staymaker/dressing. It describes the order of dress (Tip: Put your stockings, garters and shoes on before you put on your stays) and gives a good, detailed photo of the proper way to pin your upper body garment to avoid damage to yourself. (As a personal aside, I was very glad to see this - countless times I've raised my hand to adjust my handkerchief or brush something from my face and have run into the sharp end of my pins. This image clearly shows the weaving in and out of a pin within the folds of the front of the garment, and will doubtless significantly decrease my blood loss when dressed out.)

What's unacceptable about the unacceptable items?

Some garments are mentioned as being undocumentable. This does not necessarily mean that in each case it was absolutely, positively never worn or did not exist in our time period, but that there is at least not sufficent proof that it existed or was worn by women of our station. The exception to this is the so-called French or English bodice which resembles a vest with a low scooped neckline and fabric ties up the front, a garment whose disallowance is quite firm.

Commercially available patterns (Simplicity, McCall's): These types of patterns are made for Halloween costumes and do not have correct seam placement or closings, and sometimes are simply an incorrect style. There are many sources for well-researched and designed patterns, some of which are included in our resource page. Don't be afraid to ask any merchant or supplier for documentation on their product if you're at all unsure.

French or English bodices: They are, quite simply, undocumentable and unacceptable. Though Colonial Williamsburg found them useable in the 1920's, they've since been found to be inaccurate and probably inspired by jumps or women's waistcoats, both of which are lightly boned undergarments. These garments have become a flag of research not done. Make a shortgown or a bedjacket till you can manage a day gown.

Circular gathered mobcaps without bands are not documentable until the 19th century. There are plenty of good period style cap patterns available and they are truly simple to make.

Shortgowns appear not to be notably in use until later than the F&I period. They are, however, acceptable as a starter garment since they are simple to make. They should be replaced by a more appropriate upper body garment or day gown at the first opportunity.

Shawls as we define them in the current century are not documentable, nor are crocheted garments. There are alternate wraps, short cloaks, blankets that are more appropriate.

Makeup, jewelry, nail polish, perfume and other modern adornments: Plain gold or silver wedding rings are acceptable (though uncommon) only because of our modern attachment to them. No gems, and no watches. 18th century spectacles are strongly encouraged for those who wear glasses, but since glasses are an expensive item you are encouraged to wear small round silver-colored wire rimmed glasses, but no plastic or colored frames. Modern makeup, jewelry and nail polish must be removed.

A word about nomenclature

We are by and large British women and use British terms for clothing. "Chemise" for shift, "fichu" for kerchief/neckerchief are French terms not adopted by the British till late in the 18th century.

A final word

Our chosen hobby is an exciting one not only for the events we participate in and the friendships we gain, but in the research we do. The women of our unit, through ongoing research, develop not only a fashion sense for the period but a deeper understanding of the women and men, politics and economics, domestic and business matters, manners, morals, deportment and cultural influences of our time and geography. We do this to honor those men and women who came before us, and owe them the honor of doing it as correctly as possible.